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You can save a great deal of money if you can take care of your
brakes on your own. Honestly, there isn't much to it. Personally, I
prefer to change the rotors along with the pads. You can find
inexpensive rotors are at your local auto parts store.
Tools Necessary:
- reliable socket set
- hammer
- high temp caliper lube
- anti squeak lube or anti-seize
- brake cleaner
- large Screwdriver
- impact driver (available from Sears or most automotive shops)
- caliper piston compressing tool, front and rear (can be
purchased at most automotive parts stores or Sears) or large
channel locks
- jack and jack stands
Note: I'll be discussing brake maintenance for a civic. The
procedure will be correct for most automobiles where the differences
will be minimal. My experience with drum brakes is very limited, so
I won't be discussing them.
Start by raising and securing the vehicle. Next, remove the
wheel and turn the steering wheel so that the caliper faces you
Remove the bolts for the outer part of the caliper and then
remove the bolts for the inner caliper. Separating the two
halves will make it much easier to compress the piston and set the
new pads. Virtually every vehicle made has calipers that are
similar in design. You need to check a service manual to
determine the specific method of removal.
With the caliper sections removed, take a moment to lube any
slider pins that may be present. Make sure the dust boots are
in good shape. If the boot is torn debris can contaminate the
grease, causing the pins to lock up and therefore render your brakes
useless.
Before setting the inner caliper aside, apply some anti-seize or
anti-squeak lube to the pad contact points. This will help
reduce any brake squealing as well as keep the pad from seizing to
the caliper.
Remove the rotor and spray the hub with brake cleaner to remove
any debris. You may need to remove any rotor retaining screws
using an impact driver (found in my special tools section)
Once you remove the retaining screws, just throw them out.
Slide on the new caliper and use a lug nut to hold it in place.
Install the inner caliper.
Slide the new pads into place.
You will need to compress the piston before you put it back on
the inner caliper. This can be done with a large pair of
channel locks, a vice, or specialty compressing tool. It may
also be necessary for you to keep an eye on the brake fluid
reservoir and make sure that it does not overflow.
NOTE:
Rear disk brakes are a bit more difficult to compress. This is
where more significant differences can be found between
manufacturers. For civic rear brakes, you can use either a
specific tool designed for rear disk brakes or use a pair of hefty
needle nose pliers. You need to turn the piston clockwise while
you push. A bit of spray lubricant is recommended to help free up
the piston and prevent tearing the seal.
Most Mazda's require you to remove a small access plug on the
back of the caliper and back out the piston with an allen tool
and then adjust once the new pads have been installed.
With the caliper compressed, set it on the inner caliper and
replace the bolts.
At this point, you can step back and check out your good work.
Double check to make sure that you have tightened all of the bolts.
Before you go to test your new brakes, make sure to depress the
brake pedal several times to push the pistons back out.
Brake bedding depends on the manufacturer's
specific instructions. Typical street pads require an period
of 200 miles or so of easy driving. More performance oriented
pads may require a more aggressive bedding procedure where track
specific brakes need a seeming abusive process for proper bedding.
Your brakes' performance, longevity and reliability is dependant on
proper bedding. Please follow the directions carefully and be
safe! |
